FAQs

Q?Why are there gaps in between the boards on my floor?
A.

During the summer months of the year, there is a lot of humidity in the air. Your hardwood floor soaks up this humidity and expands. As the winter months roll around, and the heat is turned on, the floor dries out and starts to gap. There are a couple of tips we recommend to try and avoid this problem. Try to keep the room at a constant 45% humidity level using an air conditioner, humidifier, or a dehumidifier. Also, prior to installation, let your floor acclimate to its surroundings. Two weeks before the floor is to be laid, bring the flooring into the area where the floor is to be installed. Stack the flooring 3-4 bundles high leaving a 6″-7″ space between the stacks. This will allow air to circulate between the stacks and for your flooring to properly acclimate.

Q?Why does my floor not look like the sample in the showroom?
A.

Although your floor should look similar to the sample in the showroom, there are certain instances when your floor might look slightly different. As a tree grows and matures, over approximately 60 years, it absorbs minerals and other essential elements, which can change the color and appearance of the wood. Even wood from the same tree can show signs of variance. For instance, “younger wood” closer to the outside of the tree will be lighter than the wood from the center portion.

Q?If two different brands each call the grade of their floors “select and better,” why do they look so different?
A.

Each brand has to meet a certain criteria to be able to call their product select and better. Some manufacturers will just meet these standards, and some will meet and then exceed these standards.

If you have any questions as to which brands are better than others when it comes to grading, just give us a call and we will be more than happy to share our experience with you.

Q?My wood flooring is cupping and buckling. Is my flooring material defective?
A.

Excessive moisture is the most common cause of buckling floors. Moisture can come from leaking pipes, wet basements or crawl spaces, plywood exposed to the elements during construction, and houses left vacant without proper ventilation.

You would need to identify the source of the problem, and eliminate it. Floors can also buckle if a proper expansion gap around each wall is not used.

If your floor is cupping or buckling and you cannot find the source of the problem, contact the flooring dealer you purchased your material from and have a claims representative come out to investigate.

Q?Can a wood floor be wet mopped?
A.

No. You should never wet mop your wood floor. Standing water left after wet mopping can dull your finish, damage the wood, and leave unsightly discoloring. If you happen to spill water on your floor, clean it up as quickly as possible. If massive amounts of water leak out onto the floor, such as a dishwasher that has leaked, it might damage the floor to the point where it would need to be replaced. Most homeowners insurance companies would cover the repairs needed if this were to happen.

Q?How should I clean my Pre-finished wood floor?
A.

It is very easy to clean a Pre-finished hardwood floor. Simply dust mop, sweep, or vacuum (vacuum should have rubber wheels so not to scratch the floor). Most flooring dealers also sell cleaning kits, which come with a mop as well as an approved cleaner. If you are not sure which cleaner is appropriate for your floor, contact your local dealer for assistance.

Q?How can I prevent my wood flooring from scratching?
A.

Many steps can be taken to help reduce scratches on a wood floor. First, you can put throw rugs down in any high traffic areas such as in entryways, in front of your sink or refrigerator, or down a highly traveled hallway. One of the best things you can do is dust, sweep or mop on a regular basis to keep any dirt or debris from collecting on the surface or the floor. You can also put felt pads under the legs of any chairs or tables.

Q?Why would people choose pre-finished over unfinished flooring?
A.

Pre-finished flooring has a great advantage over unfinished flooring. Both floors install exactly the same, however, once the pre-finished floor is installed you’re all done. The only thing you have left to do is move the furniture back into the room and enjoy. An unfinished floor requires sanding and then the application of urethane. This can take an extra couple of days labor with an incomparable amount of aggravation. Pre-finished floors also have an incredible finish warranty usually consisting of 10-25 years depending on the brand of flooring.

Q?Can I install a solid 3/4″ hardwood floor in my basement?
A.

Solid 3/4″ Hardwood flooring cannot be installed below grade (below the soil line) or over concrete. When a solid product encounters moisture it reacts very negatively. Therefore, a laminate or engineered flooring must be used. Laminate flooring is constructed by fusing 4-plys of material together to form a product with unprecedented strength and durability. An engineered product is very similar with the exception that they usually have a real wood layer on top of the constructed core.

Q?Which type of wood is the hardest?
A.

All hardwoods that are used for flooring are very dependable and resilient. They do have their different scales of hardness that you will find by referring to the Janka Hardness and Stability Chart. Some of the more popular species of wood that are used for flooring are Hard Maple, Red Oak, Cherry, Ash, and Birch. Of these species listed, even though they do have different scales of hardness, you will not see a great difference under normal wear and tear.

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